White Balance
White
Balance is an aspect of photography that many digital camera owners don’t
understand or use – but it’s something well worth learning about as it can have
a real impact upon the shots you take.
White balance (WB) is the process of removing unrealistic color casts, so
that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in
your photo. Proper camera white balance has to take into account
the "color temperature" of a light source, which refers to the relative
warmth or coolness of white light.
When examining shots after taking
them that at times images can come out with an orange, blue, yellow etc. look
to them – despite the fact that to the naked eye the scene looked quite normal.
The reason for this is that images different sources of light have a different
‘color’ (or temperature) to them. Fluorescent lighting adds a bluish cast to
photos whereas tungsten (incandescent/bulbs) lights add a yellowish tinge to
photos.
We don’t generally notice this
difference in temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So
unless the temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will
generally look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to
make these adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how
to treat different light.
So for cooler (blue or green) light
you’ll tell the camera to warm things up and in warm light you’ll tell it to
cool down.
Adjusting White Balance
Different digital cameras have
different ways of adjusting white balance so ultimately you’ll need to get out
your cameras manual out to work out the specifics of how to make changes. Having said this – many
digital cameras have automatic and semi-automatic modes to help you make the
adjustments.
Modern digital cameras feature several white balance presets, as well as custom settings allowing photographer complete control over the white balance. Here we will cover them briefly and mention effects they have on photos.
Modern digital cameras feature several white balance presets, as well as custom settings allowing photographer complete control over the white balance. Here we will cover them briefly and mention effects they have on photos.
Daylight (approx.
5500 K): This white balance setting adjusts
the digital camera to make colors appear natural when shooting in sunlit
situations between about 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM (mid-day). Good thing to remember
is when
sun is lower in the sky with more red light, the scenes photographed using this
setting will appear warmer than normally seen with our eyes. Also note
that indoor scenes lit with incandescent
lights (e.g. tungsten) will look very warm.
Cloudy (approx. 6000 K):
Even the symbol is cloud, think of this white balance setting as
Cloudy/Twilight/Sunset setting. It
warms up cloudy scenes as if you had a warming
filter,
making sunlight appear warm, but not as much as the shade setting. You might
also consider using cloudy setting for shooting people, as it will produce warm
skin tones, with much more subtle effect than shade setting.
Shade (approx. 8000 K): Used for shadowed objects
under blue skies, removing the blue color cast. This setting is also used to
warm up the scene, and can be used for same purposes as cloudy setting, but
with much more pronounced effect. We suggest that you try out both settings,
and see which you prefer.
Tungsten Light (approx.
2700 K):
The tungsten setting is designed to give natural results with quartz lights. It
also reduces the strong orange color that is typical when photographing
lamp-lit indoor scenes with daylight balanced settings. Since this control adds
a cold tone to other conditions, it can be also used creatively for this
purpose (e.g. make a snow scene bluer).
Fluorescent Light (approx.
4200K, 5000K, 6500K):
White balance setting to be used for fluorescent lights. Since the fluorescent
lights usually appear green in photos, this setting adds magenta to neutralize
that effect. Usually it comes in 3 settings for finer tuning. You can use this
setting creatively, if you wish to add pinkish tones to your photos.
Flash (approx. 5400 K): Lights from flash tend to be little “colder”
than the daylight, so this white balance setting
warms the scene a little bit up. It is very similar to cloudy setting, and can
be used in similar conditions.
Manual
White Balance Adjustments
In most cases you can get a pretty
accurate result using the above preset white balance modes – but some digital
cameras (most DSLRs and higher end point and shoots) allow for manual white
balance adjustments also.
The way this is used varies a little
between models but in essence what you do is to tell your camera what white
looks like in a shot so that it has something as a reference point for deciding
how other colors should look. You can do this by buying yourself a white (or
grey) card which is specifically designed for this task – or you can find some
other appropriately colored object around you to do the job.
white
is white (not grey, bluish or yellow) etc. Now, the question is why
and how would the latter even be possible? You see, our eyes are amazing
photo-sensitive devices, and they adapt to not only the amount of light
available (seeing in dark), but also to the ambient temperature of the light.
The camera’s sensor though, is not so adaptable, and sometimes it needs our
help on understanding how to process the photo. This effect is most pronounced
in so-called mixed lighting conditions.
What is Color Temperature ?
The white balance scale is based on the thermodynamic scale of Kelvin ratings as illustrated on the figure below. According to this scale, every light source is assigned a color temperature. Lower color temperature values appear “warmer” (redder), while higher values produce “cooler” (bluer) cast to the photo.
So considering example photo above,
if we set white balance to daylight setting (approx. 5500 K), and catch a tungsten
light source – a lamp (approx. 2700 K), it will appear yellow-orange to our
digital camera (as seen in first photo). Consequently, if we set white balance
to Tungsten setting, and catch an object illuminated by daylight light source,
the object will appear blue (see wall in mouse over photo).
In most cases, if the white balance
is set to auto, the camera will take care of guessing which is the most
appropriate setting, and most modern cameras do a decent job of it, however, taking manual control over white
balance, opens a whole new range of creative
possibilities.
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